How to hammer - a guide
A lot of ink has been spilt about how to use a geological hammer. There are certainly a few things to consider, but there's really not much too it once you know what you're aiming for. We've written a brief guide from our experience both as fossil hunters and field geologists: so read on!
Why are you hammering?
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There are two main reasons for using a geological hammer. The first is to gain a fresh surface of a rock, so as to see what the rock looks like under the weathered surface. The second is to attempt to split a rock in order to extract fossils.
Generating a fresh surface
Generally, fresh surfaces are of interest to field geologists who wish to determine how the rock was formed, and what the likely conditions were while the rock was being deposited. A fresh section makes it easier to identify any minerals within the rock. With a little local knowledge, this can be a useful starting point for tracking down fossils or reconstructing the geological history of an area.
Many inexperienced geologists approach this problem with the philosophy that "if I hit the rock hard enough, it'll split open and show its innards". This is a bad idea for a number of reasons! Apart from putting unnecessary strain your your hammer, and your arm, it is a rather time consuming and destructive approach. Since you only need a small surface, you should target a prominent corner or edge of the rock in question and gently tap it off with the solid end of the hammer. This minimises your impact on the environment, as well as the effort involved!
Splitting a rock
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As mentioned above, the "hit it until it cracks" approach is generally not the best approach to geology or fossil hunting. When splitting a rock, it's worth taking a good look at the rock first. Try to spot any planes of weakness, or bedding surfaces. You can use the sharp end of your hammer to target these planes, which has two advantages - not only is the rock more likely to split along these surfaces, but these are also the most likely to bear fossils!
If the rock you are targeting has a pronounced "foliation" - that is, there are clear layers in the rock - you may be better off with a pry bar, which is designed to provide the leverage required to make splitting easy. Remember that the chisel end of your hammer is not intended to be used in this fashion! Doing so may result in damage to your hammer.
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If your rock lacks an obvious weak point, you may have to revert to brute force. This can be applied intelligently to minimise the effort required. Ideally, you would use a rock splitting chisel on one point on the rock, which will eventually cause it to fracture. Failing this, you should search for a natural anvil: ideally a prominent, pointed piece of rock on which you can rest your stone.
If you can't find a suitable anvil, you will have to make do with a solid surface. Hammering down on a peat bog will bury, not split, your rock! Again, you should aim to concentrate the blows of your hammer on one small point on the rock to avoid wasting energy. Allow your rock to lie flat on its anvil, as holding it upright may force it to split at an unnatural angle, resulting in more effort and discomfort for you.
Clearing topsoil and mudstone
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You may also find the chisel end of your hammer invaluable as a miniature trowel, for clearing topsoil or weathered mudstones from your rock of interest. Just be careful not to get it snagged in roots - they've given me painful knocks when digging too enthusiastically!
Safety considerations
Hammering is inherently dangerous. You, and anyone standing nearby, should always be sure to wear safety goggles to protect against stray chips of rock or metal, which can - and do - cause blindness. You should also ensure that there is no-body standing behind you at any point while you are hammering, as it is possible for the hammer to slip from your hand while you are hammering. While working with a friend, the head of his hammer became detatched from its shaft and flew backwards into the road - highlighting the importance of this rule!
Hammer transport
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A final little tip - I never quite knew what to do with my hammer between outcrops, until I found this handy belt holder, which allows the hammer to swing by your side. It's saved me no end of backtracking and rummaging through the undergrowth, trying to remember when I last saw my hammer...



![24oz Wooden Shaft Hammer [out of stock]](http://im.geological-supplies.com/GEO24WS/1-90.jpg)
